Hello, Fellow Antwerpenaars! It’s good to be back after a bit of travelling and an October break from blogging. Having been away, I’m way behind and have a backlog on my personal Antwerp to-do list. I still haven’t properly scoped out the new Zaha Hadid Port House Building, the renovated Plantin Moretus Museum on Vrijdagmarkt (which family members visited *gasp* WITHOUT ME in my absence and heartily recommend) or Mercado on Groenplaats (well, I did go in but it was crazy busy. Will return when it’s settled down).
However … for now let’s take a more detailed look at what is going on this Hallowe’en weekend, as autumn gets well underway. Here’s the GOOGLE MAP with all the places mentioned here, so that you can find them …
It being the last Friday of the month, it’s Critical Mass -assemble as usual at 6pm on Theaterplein, but this month is a special Hallowe’en Edition so get dressed up for this one, and decorate your bike!
For a night out with a difference, and costing a mere 3 euros, head to FOMU at 8pm for Nightwatch (performance, poetry & party …).
If you have a younger reader in your family then this book presentation at the Sjokkel Toy Shop will be of interest to you, as local children’s writer, Vered Ben Kiki shows a number of her books, such as’De Andere Kous’, ‘Arthur nodigt je uit naar zijn event’, ‘Hanna is bang om naar school te gaan’, ‘Elias Opa & Het Amsterdamse Piratenkantoor’ and ‘Dick De Draak wordt verliefd’. The books are available in a variety of languages: English, Dutch, French, Hebrew and Arabic, wth one story (‘Hanna is bang om naar school te gaan’) also in Japanese.
Singles organisation Sling opens its doors to everyone (you don’t need to be single) at the ICU Art Expo at the Mosterdfabriek right near Par Spoor Noord. It’s free, but the afterparty is ticketed (7 euros)
Creative autumn shoppers might like to hang out in Grand Bazar shopping centre, where between the 29th October and 6th November, you can join in decorating a mug and get some free pumpkin soup -from 1.30 each day, except Sunday.
At 11.30 at the Sint Carolus Borromeuskerk The Manchester Chorale will sing for an hour. This is free. It’s also a very beautiful church -perhaps it gets overlooked, dwelling as it does in the shadow of Antwerp’s much better known OLV Cathedral.
The weather this weekend is expected to be cool and dry this weekend (13- 14 degrees) with highest chances of showers on Sunday.
Monday is Hallowe’en in case you have failed to notice. The Irish pubs in particular are always big on this event -there’s always a busy dress-up party at Kelly’s (Keyserlei) and this year there is a Rocky Horror Picture Show party at An Sibhin with the film showing at 9pm. This party at music pub Cabron (right near Grote Markt) also looks promising.
Don’t forget that (happily for those with hangovers) the next day- 1st November – is a public holiday in Belgium. From 9 -6 on Theaterplein, Goegekregen will be holding a big second hand market. There’s usually a very reasonably priced bar for those requiring a little hair of the dog.
Great news for street art fans who read this blog: Street Art Antwerp (AKA Tim Streetwerpenaar) are indeed going ahead with tours in English on Wednesday mornings. Discover the hidden world of graffiti and street art in Antwerp during a tour which last 90 mins -2 hours, starting at 10am (Berchem Station). There is no official charge, but participants are encouraged to make a voluntary donation, which will be gifted to charity -in this case Music For Life. Make contact with Tim via his Facebook page or on email@example.com if you would like to join a tour. Additionally, Street Art Antwerp offers this sparkly new app so you can find your own way too.
No, I don’t have an update re: my application for Belgian nationality (despite sending a cheeky tweet asking Guy Verhofstadt to put in a good word for me) just a few more thoughts following my first trip back to the UK, post referendum – a somewhat hasty post (kindly forgive its lack of polish) before I head back to the UK again for a wedding this weekend .
I just spent five days in the heart of London supervising a group of international students on a theatre and visual arts trip, which took us to various galleries and shows. I don’t know what effect Brexit will have on educational trips like this one in the future, but I expect that they are likely to become more costly and complicated to organise for any school on mainland Europe, but maybe that is a post for the later on.
I don’t often think of London to be honest, even though I grew up not far from the city, at the end of the Met line. And when I do, I think of it as a place that would be fantastic to live in but probably completely unaffordable, and a place that is fairly unrepresentative of how most people in Britain experience life. My thoughts about Britain tend to focus more on Scotland, which is where I lived for ten years before I left the UK. This is particularly the case this week with the developments at the SNP conference and the headlines coming from that.
But as soon as I arrive at Kings Cross, I absolutely love it. I love the busy-ness of London, I live the iconic sights. I love watching how London life -as represented by its evolving skyline -negotiates the divide between its past and its shiny, modern present. I feel safe in central London -it canters along at such a pace, but I do not find the atmosphere tense or edgy. And this being a brief update, I do not have the space to wax lyrical about all of the culture on offer there, but we saw some world class exhibitions, including You Say You Want A Revolution at the V&A and Georgia O’ Keeffe at the Tate. Not cheap, but we also sat in Regent’s Park in the early autumn sunshine and enjoyed The Frieze Sculpture Park for free.
In London, you cannot walk more than a few steps without hearing another language. You will be helped in shops, stations and cafés by people of all different nationalities. You will see the influence of generations of immigration on the city in every part of it. You will look up at glossy buildings and ponder the trade and business which is happening between London and Europe, and the world. You will see groups of tourists from everywhere enjoying all of these things, alongside the traditionally British features of London which seem to be enhanced – not diminished – by the international influences jostling around them. I am not denying that London has any of the problems common to most big cities (it does) or that it is too expensive (it is) or that working towards a harmonious and hugely multi-cultural society does not present challenges (of course it does). But clichéd as it sounds -and I know I speak as a visitor, not as a resident – London has a buzz which to a massive degree is created by its internationalism. It is not possible to imagine a mono-cultural London, and the vision would be a grim and soulless one.
So to pace the streets enjoying art, food, sounds and smells from the city itself and from all over the world, and to simultaneously contemplate that London is -against the will of its people – being taken out of the what is both a part of that internationalism, and a gateway to further internationalism, was also simply very, very sad…
I am going to be away from Belgium for the next two weekends, so forgive me for producing this 3-in-1 post. As I am not returning until Thursday 20th October, it’s difficult to blog in detail for the next three weekends.
Normal weekly service will resume before November. Until then, here is a brief October guide – please add to it by posting links, suggestions and information in the comments.
The first Friday of the month is always Opening Evening at BATS Antwerp. Go along to the Little Theatre on Paardenmarkt, to find out what they are up to, enjoy a drink at their
friendly bar or get involved on or off-stage, if you are interested in being part of English-speaking theatre productions locally.
8 & 9th October
Street Art Antwerp comprises of Tim who will show you the hidden street art and graffiti work in Antwerp. Make a donation of your choosing and join the tour, starting at 11. Max 15 people so mail firstname.lastname@example.org to enrol. The tour is in Dutch, but I hear that if there is sufficient interest, there may be tours in English too later (image courtesy of Street Art Antwerp).
Maybe we finally have to face up to the end of summer, because Cargo Summer bar closes this weekend, with events on both Saturday night (18h start) and Sunday (brunch).
Markt van Morgen is on Kloosterstraat (just round the corner from Sint-Andriesplaats) from 12 -6pm.
It’s also the first birthday of this very blog. Happy birthday to me! (image: Pixabay)
Mercado Grand opening (see above)
The Ecohuis opens its doors for an Eco House Fest starting its program at 11am. There is a focus on creating and maintaining a roof garden as well as other activities and information on offer -e.g. a climbing wall. There is a supervised area for kids aged 0- 6. The Ecohuis also has a really good café, also with some toys and games for kids.
At the Permeke library is the regular book sale on de Coninckplein (10am -4pm)
22nd & 23rd October
Well, the name of this event makes me think it might be something for me…
Please check out a Nessascityblog post of a different kind: our post EU referendum story so far. Might be of particular interest to UK passport holders applying for Belgian nationality in the wake of Brexit, but hopefully to others too.
Waking up on the morning of June 24th this year was -I imagine- a pretty grim experience for most British people living on the European mainland, myself included. Not least, because having been away from Britain for over fifteen years, I had not been entitled to vote in the referendum that would affect my status in the place I now consider to be my home.
I understand fully that the consequences for the 1.2 million Britons living outside the UK but within Europe, would most likely have been far from the minds of UK dwelling voters who do not have valued family connections to Europe – although it was pretty painful to learn that rights you had taken for granted had also been voted away even by people you thought of as your nearest and dearest. However, I did wonder what sort of image voters might have of us, were they fleetingly to consider who we might be. It seemed to me that on the few occasions when the media did reflect on this, it frequently involved invoking the stereotype of the retired or bar-owning British expat living it up around a beach in southern Spain, as depicted in pictures used in articles like this one or this one (which uses the same image) or here (there’s that Union Jack bedecked bar yet again!). I’d like to point out that this is far from reality for the vast majority of British people living in EU countries: we are nurses, builders, translators, wait staff, small business owners, teachers, civil servants, receptionists and many more regular jobs besides. We are working parents, stay-at-home-parents, single parents and ‘trailing partners’ (as the re-location literature so flatteringly terms those who accompany their working partners on international moves). We are single people, or couples, or busy families doing school runs, jobs, hoofing it round the supermarket, paying our bills… We are -for the most part- really NOT sunning our leathery beer bellies in Malaga, while refusing to learn a word of Spanish. Our lives -like those of people in the UK – consist of the usual unremarkable elements that form the basis of regular working days in the communities in which we live.
I arrived in Belgium in 2006, from the Netherlands, where I had been working for six years as a teacher. I also took up a teaching post on arrival in Antwerp, and this was the reason for my move here, with my (Dutch) partner, who is also a teacher, and my daughter, who was five at the time. My two youngest children were born subsequently (in 2008 and 2012) here in Antwerp, and attend local schools.
We quickly settled in, and came to appreciate living in Antwerp. What’s not to like? It’s a vibrant city where there is always something going on in the community. Over the ten years that we have lived here, we have enjoyed being part of city life, often through regular community public events laid on by Stad Antwerpen. These have become more familiar to us the longer we stay. Our lives have become punctuated by annual dates on the family calendar: Autovrijdag (car free day), Bollekesfeest (a beer festival), Zomer van Antwerpen (summer events program) and- as temperatures dwindle and the days grow shorter- Winter In A (winter and Christmas events). It’s a lovely city to visit, if you get the chance.
I haven’t lived in England since I was 18, and I left the UK from Scotland in 2000, but I never thought that having a British passport could become an impediment to accessing employment on an equal basis, or would complicate travel around Europe. I never thought that I would be voted into becoming a ‘non-EU citizen’. I suppose I am guilty of taking my European identity -and the belief that it would be reflected in the passport that I hold – completely for granted. Born in 1971, my life so far corresponds almost exactly to the period of UK EU membership.
So once the shock had dissipated a little, I began to think about what to do next. My eldest is going to be finishing her secondary education in a few years and may wish to apply for further education. That might be in Britain, but equally it might not; she might prefer to apply for a local course, or one in another EU country. It seems absurd that -as someone who has never actually lived in Britain, nor outside the EU -she was at risk of becoming a non- EU citizen. Maybe everything would be OK, but as the terms of Brexit seem so utterly confused and unclear (despite the recent -largely unsurprising- statement that the end of March 2017 will be the deadline for triggering article 50), I quickly felt inclined to start looking into gaining Belgian nationality so that future options remained as broad as ever they had been for myself and my family. If I had citizenship, it would automatically be passed on to my children. I would not need to give up my UK nationality, but it would not be recognised by Belgium. So I decided to request Belgian nationality, and what follows is what I discovered. Belgium’s regulations regarding citizenship are more lenient than many countries and a bit of Googling revealed that I was eligible to apply. Belgium requires that you have lived here, and that you provide evidence of ‘economic participation’ (i.e. earning and paying tax) over an unbroken five- year period. You can apply for citizenship if you have not been paying tax, but would need to have been resident for ten years in such a case. To apply, you need to demonstrate your period of residency, your employment status, that you have paid tax, that you speak at least one of the three languages of Belgium and that you are integrated.
Firstly, I needed to go to a legal translator to get a translation of my British birth certificate. This cost about 70 euros and took a few working days. I also had to get a letter from my employer, confirming that I have a permanent contract and stating the date when the employment began. I then set the printer to work, printing out all the tax documents which showed my ‘economic participation’ over the past five years, and salary slips for the current tax year, up to the time I began my application. Armed with all this, I went to the Districtshuis, where all of the documents were scanned and kept. The woman who assisted me was professional, efficient and helpful. She told me that I did not need to do an integration course or language test, as this is assumed, given the length of time I have been holding down a job here (I hope she is right, as I have a friend who has been told differently!). She then directed me to the Federal Fiscaal Overheidsdienst to get one more document that would cost 150 euros. I have subsequently come to understand that this is basically a fee for the creation of the dossier, but as you can see from the picture below… I was not clear about its purpose at the time…
[This needed to be stamped of course. Anyone who has lived in Belgium for any length of time, will know that stamping things is Very Important Indeed, and that even in the digital age, there are few things that Belgian bureaucracy enjoys more than a bit of ‘stempelen’ on hard copies of … pretty much everything.]
So I dutifully got those things and headed back to the Districtshuis. I saw the same efficient and helpful lady who was, once again, efficient and helpful. She chatted in a friendly way and did some more scanning.
And then she had me copy out this statement in my very best handwriting:
“Ik verklaar Belgisch staatsburger te willen worden en de Grondwet, de wetten van het Belgische volk en het Verdrag tot bescherming van de rechten van de mens en de fundamentele vrijheden te zullen naleven.”
(I declare that I wish to become a Belgian citizen, and to comply with the Constitution, the laws of the Belgian people and the Convention for the Protection of Human Rights and Fundamental Freedoms)
And I think it was at that point that something changed. I realised that I actively DID want those things. I wanted to be Belgian. Not in a fervent, flag-wavy way. Not in a national anthem, or a marchy boots way. Nor can I claim an exhaustive knowledge of Belgian art, history or politics. I simply like our life here, in Antwerp, Belgium, the EU, and I think that Human Rights are important. I had started the application as a bureaucratic, practical procedure -a rubber-stamping, as it were – to retain rights and freedoms for practical purposes, living in an EU country. But somehow copying out the words and signing them did cause a small sea change. I was reminded that I do indeed believe in those EU values. I find I am less attached to a specifically British identity than I thought I was. And Belgium has been good to us… this small, imperfect, often divided country, frequently maligned by stand-up comedians who probably haven’t been here (or who are short on material perhaps) as being … BORING (yep, you’ve heard the jokes, right?).
Well, whatevs, as they say. Needless to say, that is not a view of Belgium that I share. I’ve had confirmation that my dossier has been received and I am waiting for the decision – which is meant to take 4 months from that point. That would be the 22nd December -my Dad’s birthday. I am proud that he campaigned energetically for the Remain side, and we commiserate together frequently. It would be a good to be able to offer him the consolation that three of his grandchildren will retain -and no doubt benefit from retaining – their EU status. So not a day goes by when I don’t at some point think about my application, and that thought is always accompanied by a heartfelt hope that my it will be granted.
… But if you are interested to hear what happens next- stay tuned, and I’ll let you know as soon as I hear.